Africa 2023

There were two parts to our trip: two 4-day safaris in Kenya and Victoria Falls (Zimbabwe) and South Africa.

After nearly a year of planning, the three of us, Bill, Jackie and Judy with the knowledge and skills of Safari Partners and advice from friends, started our adventure in Africa on February 4, 2023. There were preparation issues that we dealt with such Yellow Fever and Typhoid injections at the Travel Clinic that cost $375 each (most of which was refunded from our benefit package) and malaria pills. One of the challenges of getting there was the 15 kg limitation for one piece of (soft-sided) luggage for the internal flights. Another was the requirement for the safaris of earth colour clothes, such as browns, greens and tans.

Day 1: Fairmont The Norfolk, Nairobi (Sun, February 5)

Zimbabwe

A nation of spectacular natural beauty, friendly people and rich culture, Zimbabwe’s status as one of Africa’s leading safari destinations was dampened for years by its political instability. But now that the country is transcending its strife and returning to a state of equilibrium, it is once again emerging as a vacation highlight of the continent. Victoria Falls – known to locals as ‘The Smoke That Thunders’ – is one of the seven natural wonders of the world and the sheer power of this massive body of water plunging into the Zambezi Gorge is awe-inspiring and unforgettable. Lake Kariba, with its game-rich shores and islands, is an idyllic safari spot featuring mind-blowing sunsets; Hwange National Park is known for its huge herds of elephants; and a kayak trip down the Zambezi through the Mana Pools National Park will appeal to the intrepid traveller, providing close encounters with crocodiles, hippos and a host of other wildlife.

The ongoing social and political unrest in Zimbabwe has deterred most potential travellers from visiting Zimbabwe and experiencing some of the most breathtaking scenery and first-class game viewing safaris in Africa. Although visitors to the country are urged to exercise caution at all times and to remain aware of recent developments, the main tourist areas, and national parks in particular, have been largely unaffected by the political situation, being far from the cities where much of the instability has taken place.

Nairobi

Situated along the Nairobi River in beautiful Kenya, the capital of Nairobi is East Africa’s most cosmopolitan city. It serves as an excellent starting point for African safari trips around Kenya. Nairobi is Africa’s 4th largest city and is a vibrant and exciting place to be. There are some fascinating attractions: its cafe culture, unbridled nightlife, the National Museum, the Karen Blixen Museum and most notably, we visited the elephant orphanage operated by the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust for a once in a lifetime experience. However, it is not visitor-friendly as we were advised against walking around on our own.

Day Itinerary

On arrival we were met by Boni and transferred to the The Norfolk Hotel.

Overnight: Fairmont The Norfolk

Situated in the heart of Kenya, the Fairmont Norfolk Hotel offers a sophisticated retreat that is within easy reach of world-renowned wildlife centres, golf courses, and museums. The luxurious rooms and suites are tastefully furnished and the hotel features four dining establishments offering a variety of cuisines, as well as an all-day dining restaurant. Guests can enjoy leisurely walks through the tropical gardens, have a splash in the swimming pool, work out at the fitness centre, or enjoy relaxing massages and treatments at the spa.

Day 2: Fairmont The Norfolk, Nairobi (Mon, February 6)

Day Itinerary

With a free day, we had a full breakfast, spent a few hours at the pool, had a nap to recover from the long flights and enjoyed dinner in the Norfolk Fairmont, a classy hotel with beautiful gardens.

Day 3: Fairmont The Norfolk, Nairobi (Tues, February 7)

Day Itinerary

We enjoyed a city tour which included stops at the Sheldrick Elephant Orphanage, Giraffe Centre, Karen Blixen Museum and Kazuri Beads. After the massive breakfast at the hotel, we didn’t stop for lunch. We were back in time to go to the pool.

Elephant Rescue Centre

We got covered in red dust as the young elephants blew dirt over their backs in order to cool down. The centre provides care and refuge for baby elephants there abandoned often because their mothers died of malnutrition or poachers. Each baby is named and profiled.

Once they are old and strong enough, they are returned to the wild.

Then we were driven to a rescue centre for giraffes.

Giraffe Centre

This centre focuses on rescuing giraffes that are in trouble. We were given food to feed the two giraffes that came to visit.

We were disappointed in this site as it felt like a zoo.

Karen Blixen Museum

The story of this Dutch woman who made strong and respectful relationships with the native peoples was one of courage and strength. The author of “Out of Africa” is highly regarded to this day.

Then we returned to our hotel for a swim and dinner.

One day at the Fairmont, we wanted to go for a walk. The staff there warned us not to walk on our own but Judy wanted some suntan lotion so we walked to a drug store in the city. It was an intimidating experience but we made it without incident.

We moved on to our safaris.

Day 4-8: Elephant Bedroom Camp, Samburu National Reserve (Wed, February 8 to Sun, February 12)

Samburu National Reserve

Set on the banks of the Ewaso Ng’iro River and neighbouring the Buffalo Springs National Park, Samburu National Reserve is characterised by a spectacular landscape of rugged hills, undulating plains and riverine forests. The park is home to abundant wildlife including a variety of rare species such as the reticulated giraffe, the long-necked gerenuk, Somali ostrich, Grey’s Zebra, and Beisa Oryx. Visitors can also enjoy spotting over 900 elephants, a variety of predators, and over 450 bird species. The ancient culture of the Samburu people is still alive here, and it is possible to see two unique customs firsthand. In the first, watch as herds of cattle respond to each man’s individual voice as they call. In the second, see the tribesmen perform incredible dances that go back hundreds of years.

Day Itinerary

After breakfast we transferred to Wilson airport for our flight to the Samburu National Reserve. In the drive through the city, we saw the poor living conditions of the locals in “the Flats”.

Rugged and remote, this wildlife reserve provides some the best and most colourful game viewing in the country. Elephant Bedroom Camp offers luxury in a setting of breathtaking beauty. It is set along the banks of the Ewaso Nyiro River and shaded by doum palms and other trees that make up this green belt of riverine forest. The surrounding Samburu National Reserve is an area of spectacular scenery; its dry plains bisected by the meandering river (now dry with no rain for 2 years) with the backdrop of Africa’s dramatic mountains, including Mt Kenya.

The spacious tents have rustic and colourful African touches, offering all the comforts; including a private plunge pool on the deck, hot and cold running water, and electricity . The lounge and dining area is decorated with vibrant safari style, its soft intimate lighting assuring that this is the ultimate place to relax in between exciting game drives. Elephant, Monkeys, Impalas are amongst the camp’s many regular wild visitors, while Samburu National Reserve has a good number of lions and leopards and offers the opportunity to see many species endemic to northern Kenya. Samburu’s hot dry climate is also perfect for al-fresco breakfasts and three course lunches. Four course candlelit dinners were enjoyed in the cozy dining area under the magnificent African sky.

Wednesday Feb 8 Game Drive

We enjoyed morning and afternoon game drives in open sided 4×4 safari vehicles; on our first one at 4:00 pm, we saw all of ‘the big five’! Julius was a fabulous guide; he said, Well that takes off the pressure!”

I took this leopard photo with Judy’s camera:

February 9 Game Drive In Elephant Camp in Samburu

Samburu Village Visit

We visited a local Samburu Village to gain some insight into the Samburu culture and witness a little of Samburu life. This village was normally itinerant but because of the lack of water, they had made a permanent site and their children were able to go to school. A church community in the US bought them a tank which costs them $250 to fill. The women in the village did most of the work and, according to the elder, the men made all the decisions. Young men were away herding cattle in locations that had water.

The families would normally have domestic animals such as goats but because of the lack of water, they were unable to keep them. They used the springs in the dry river beds for other uses but for drinking water. they had a tank that they had to pay to fill. They said that this had solved many diseases for them such as dysentery and cholera.

We get back in time to quickly change and go to dinner. The food was wonderful! I have not included all of the different animals we saw since we saw so many.

February 10 Game Drive Samburu

Then we went back to our cabin, and Obama is back: walked right next to Judy’s porch (you can see her taking a photo in the background). The guard could be heard talking to him, saying, ” Now you know you’re not supposed to be on private property.”

February 11 Game Drive in Samburu

Another 6:30 start, out into the dust and search for beautiful animals.

The dikdiks are the smallest antelopes and are always in pairs.

It’s a long way down for the giraffe to get water so she carefully splays her legs.

This powerful family of mom and 3 cubs was impressive and scary as they looked down on us in the river bed.

February 12 on our way to Masai Mara

This morning we were transferred to the airstrip for our flight to the Masai Mara National Reserve offering wonderful scenery and plenty of game.

We’re sad to be leaving Elephant Bedroom Camp and Samburu but won’t miss the red dust in everything. I developed a cough that persisted for the rest of the trip.

Day 8-12: Entim Camp, Masai Mara National Reserve (Sun, February 12 to Thu, February 16)

Masai Mara National Reserve

One of Kenya’s undisputed natural highlights is the Masai Mara National Reserve, which sprawls across more than 1500 square kilometres of the country’s southwest. The park protects a phenomenal array of game, including elephant, lion, leopard and buffalo, as well as crocodile and hippopotamus in the Mara River. The birdlife is no less impressive, with over 450 resident bird species.

Day Itinerary

It is perhaps the only region left in Kenya where the visitor may see animals in the same super-abundance as existed a century ago. The Entim Mara Camp offers 12 luxury tents close to the Mara River. Entim was designed with a purpose in mind: to be in the best possible location to view the wildebeest migration in the Maasai Mara game reserve. After lunch we enjoyed our first game drive in the Mara. Returning to the camp, we enjoyed some relaxation on our private veranda, sundowners and dinner in the central dining area.

Arriving at Entim Camp

Entim meaning “forest” in Maasai is discreetly tucked on the edge of the riverine woodlands. From the shaded seclusion of this attractively-designed camp, guests can relax in luxury and admire unforgettable views over the Mara River and across expansive plains, with the distant backdrops of undulating escarpments and volcanically-sculpted hills. The camp was eco-friendly and small, with only 12, tastefully but differently furnished, well-equipped tents. The decor aimed to enhance the surrounding environment.

All 12 guest tents overlook the Mara River and are well-placed, en-suite with flush toilets and hot showers. There is a cozy lounge area with a small library, separate bar, and dining area, which is open-fronted allowing guests the experience of eating meals while watching and hearing the hippos at a distance in the river.

On our way from the airport, we had a game drive seeing many animals, including some new ones.

Monday, February 13, 2023 Game Drive Masai Mara

We are up and going by 6:00 am and it is cooler here so we dress in several layers of clothing and I take a blanket, as well.

February 14 Game Drive Masai Mara

February 15 Game Drive Masai Mara

Just as we were finishing up our sundowner, Duncan stopped, grabbed his binoculars and said, “I see a Rhino! “We dumped the snacks in the 4 x 4 and tore off racecar driver style to see the rhino. I asked him how he had seen it and Duncan said, “Masai eyes!” We had been looking for days.

February 16 Game Drive

We had one last game drive before leaving for the airport.

These photos of the Leopard and Cheeta were taken by Duncan by using his binoculars with my iPhone.

This photo contains a good story. The day before, we saw this leopard and her cub in a tree 2 kilometers away surrounded by 4 adult male lions having their afternoon nap. She had been chased up the tree and they wanted to kill the cub who was competition. In addition, the Mom had just killed an impala which was on the ground nearby for their dinner. We watched for a while but nothing was happening. I asked Duncan what the outcome might be. He said the lions might get the cub but more than likely she would wait them out, they would get bored and she and the cub would move away.

The photo above is the next day. Mom had taken her cub and carried the dead impala 2 kilometers away; the lions were long gone; she was up the tree watching and the cub was running up and down the tree.

Day 12: Four Points by Sheraton Nairobi Airport, Nairobi (Thu, February 16)

Nairobi

Day Itinerary

This morning we were escorted to the airstrip for our flight back to Nairobi Wilson. On arrival we were met and transferred to the Four Points airport for our overnight rest.

Overnight: Four Points by Sheraton Nairobi Airport

Conveniently located within the Jomo Kenyatta International Airport Complex, The Four Points by Sheraton Nairobi Airport hotel is an ideal stopover for travellers but we had not experienced so much security as we had at this hotel: gates, dogs, credentials check.

Day 13: Palm River Hotel, Victoria Falls (Zimbabwe) (Fri, February 17)

Victoria Falls (Zimbabwe)

Victoria Falls is one of the world’s most impressive waterfalls. It is set on the magnificent Zambezi River which creates the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe. These spectacular falls can be easily visited and viewed from the Zimbabwean side. Considered to be the world’s widest waterfalls, Victoria Falls measures an impressive 1708 metres in width.

Day Itinerary

We transfer for our flight to Victoria Falls. We were met on arrival at Victoria Falls and transferred to the Palm River Hotel for two nights. A lovely new addition at the Falls which was opened in the last year. The hotel’s location could not be more idyllic, situated as it is along the banks of the iconic Zambezi River, among towering indigenous trees and only 4 kilometres from Africa’s Natural World Wonder, Victoria Falls – so close, in fact, that on a clear, quiet day you can hear the thunder and see the spray of the mighty waterfall from your room.

Overnight: Palm River Hotel

The Palm River Hotel offers 73 luxurious rooms situated along the banks of the iconic Zambezi River.

Ra-Ikane Sunset Cruise

We got on the Zambezi Sunset Cruise at the hotel. The ever-popular sunset cruise offers a unique way to explore the channels of the river and to get an up-close view of the pristine wilderness and African game along its banks. We enjoyed an array of canapés, a full bar and a charming crew who imparted a bit of interesting Victoria Falls history.

Day 14: Palm River Hotel, Victoria Falls (Zimbabwe) (Sat, February 18) Day Itinerary

The Victoria Falls reaches Its Zenith in May each year but because of the rain it was almost full. It’s a truly awe-inspiring experience – the sight, the sound, the smell; the humbling feeling that here indeed is one of Nature’s Supreme Masterpieces. We were accompanied through the Rainforest by a qualified Guide who gave a brief history of the Falls as well as detailing the flora, fauna, bird & wildlife and other points of interest.

Wild Horizons Tour of the Falls Zimbabwe

The Falls were at or close to full capacity when we were there. Consequently, the mist which fell like rain made viewing very challenging- we got drenched!

This tour was conducted in the morning accompanied through the Rainforest by Ernest.

Victoria Falls is twice the height of Niagara but Niagara has over twice the volume.

This was a lovely hotel but the fact that it rained all day and we couldn’t take the helicopter ride over the Fall was a disappointment.

We visited an art gallery in Victoria Falls , Tami Walker, Fine Art Photography, and I loved the photo of the elephants in Happy Hour:

That evening we went for dinner at the Cassia Restaurant at Ilala Lodge -very elegant.

Day 15: Blackheath Lodge, Cape Town (Sun, February 19)

Cape Town

Set at the confluence of the Indian and Atlantic oceans and backed by the famous Table Mountain, the bustling city of Cape Town presents an alluring combination of drawcards. Incredible powdery white beaches, highly acclaimed wine routes, and astonishingly beautiful mountain trails surround a cosmopolitan hub. This diverse metropolis is filled with superb shops and restaurants, extraordinary heritage monuments, a multitude of entertainment venues, and a spectacular, chic waterfront harbour. Highlights include the Zeitz Museum of Contemporary African Art and Table Mountain’s jaw-dropping views.

Day Itinerary

We had some excitement the morning of our flight to Cape Town, when the driver didn’t turn up for 6:30 am. The staff at Palm River were wonderful: they tracked down the owner of the transportation company and found us a driver. We had to go over the border to Zambia; we had to wait for a van from Zambia to take us to Livingston airport and walk across the border – that waiting and worrying was a challenge we didn’t need.

We were transferred to the airport for our flight to Cape Town and met on arrival and transferred to the lovely Blackheath Lodge Boutique Hotel for four nights.

Overnight: Blackheath Lodge

Blackheath Lodge Boutique Hotel is situated in Sea Point on Cape Town’s Atlantic Seaboard, right under the iconic Signal Hill – close to the happening city centre of Cape Town, as well as the popular V&A Waterfront and Green Point Stadium. Blackheath Lodge has a rich history dating back to the 1880s.

Its Victorian design, spacious interiors, high ceilings and wooden floors are combined with eclectic touches of African style and charm.

Deluxe King or Twin Room

After we checked in, we took an Uber to the Albert and Victoria waterfront, walked around and had dinner at Den Anker restaurant on the harbour.

Day 16: Blackheath Lodge, Cape Town (Mon, February 20)

Our Table Mountain/city tour was scheduled from February 20th but because the weather was forecast to be cloudy, it was rescheduled for Wednesday, a sunny day with clear skies. So we had two days on our own and decided to start with the District Six museum.

District Six was named the sixth municipal district of Cape Town in 1867. A mixed suburb of freed slaves, merchants, artisans, labourers and immigrants, it was a vibrant close-knit community. It became an island of tolerance and freedom in the growing sea of apartheid oppressions and injustice. This was undesirable to the apartheid government, so in 1966, they declared it a whites-only area. Over the next 15 years the heart of the city was removed as one house after another was raised to the ground. The inhabitants were relocated to new townships on the Cape Flats. By the end of the 1970’s the Group Areas Act had authorized the relocation of nearly 150,000 Capetonians with black people by far the most affected.

Pass Laws: Integral to apartheid’s political repressions and economic exploitation were race laws and mechanisms governing people’s movements and places of residence. on such mechanism was forced removals, as a result of which millions of lack (including so-called coloured) people were physically uprooted from their homes. The system of ‘influx control’ was started as early as 1760 by the Dutch colonial government and applied to slaves in the Cape and systemized in 1952 and 1955 with pass or reference books that every African over 16 had to carry. The reference book contained an identity card with all personal information: pension payment, housing and schooling as well as the ability to move around the streets, all became dependent on possessing a reference book with the correct stamp.

After some anti-pass resistance, after July 1986, all South Africans had to carry a new similar identity card with fingerprints. The processes of social engineering resulted in people being concentrated in artificially created African homelands and dormitory blacks (and coloured) townships on the periphery of the cities and this continues to today.

We then went to the Slave Lodge. The individual stories of the slaves was upsetting.

Slavery is no longer legal yet it exists in different forms. Today the definition of slavery has been expanded to deal with various human rights violations including: debt bondage, serfdom, human trafficking, sexual exploitation and the worst forms of child labour. Worldwide an estimated 12.3 million are trapped in various forms of forced labour and 126 million children are caught up in the worst forms of child labour.

Then we took an Uber to the Zeitz Museum of Contemporary African Art, stopped on the way for a drink and Bill played with the top-shaped chairs.

We kept taking photos of Table Mountain because of all the stories of people that went to Cape Town and it was cloudy and they missed the view.

We returned to the hotel, dressed for dinner had gin cocktails and went for dinner.

Day 17: Blackheath Lodge, Cape Town (Tuesday, February 21)

Day Itinerary

Another free day to explore Cape Town and visit the V&A Waterfront area with its many cafes, shops and restaurants. We were pleased when the hotel hung the Canadian flag.

We took an Uber to the Company Gardens.

For dinner we went to The Fledgling Kitchen and had an interesting tapas meal.

Day 18: Blackheath Lodge, Cape Town (Wednesday, February 21)

Day Itinerary

Ebby collected us after breakfast at approximately 08.30am for our Private Half Day City Tour which focused on the different cultures of the City, starting with visiting Table Mountain to view the city and coastline, followed with a visit to Bo Kaap & Museum, Castle of Good Hope, museums, local markets, art galleries, and cafes.

Table Mountain

We started early with our visit to Table Mountain on a beautiful clear day-it is frequently cloudy and visitors miss the view from one of the new Seven Wonders of Nature.

After Table Mountain, Ebby took us to “the best coffee shop in the world” and warned us not to ask for sugar or we would be tossed out! I, of course, asked and the waiter brought us a whole plate.

Then we visited Bo Kaap, a mostly Jewish community originally, was full of very colourful homes and arts/cultural buildings but is gradually losing the mid- Eastern influence.

Next on our Cape Town city tour, was the Castle of Good Hope, built by the British as a fortress against the Dutch but never experienced a battle, except with the locals. It is constructed as a pentagon. It was used as a jail for prison for criminals and now is a home for the military.

Because of a cycling event and the release of the budget by the government, many of the city centre streets were cordoned off so this is the only photo I got of government buildings.

After the tour, we were dropped off in the shopping district and when we were looking for internet access to get an Uber back to the hotel, we went into Caroline Gibello’s art store. We were very impressed with her photos of wild animals and I found one of a giraffe called ‘Aspiration’ that she discounted because the edges of the print were not perfect- how lucky was that! The print of the leopard behind her is called ‘Totem’.

We arrived back in time to catch some rays on our private deck.

For dinner we went to another interesting restaurant, the Pot Luck, with a gorgeous sunset.

Day 18: One Marine Drive Boutique Hotel, Hermanus (Thursday, February 23)

Hermanus

Situated just 140 kilometres from Cape Town and built between the beautiful shores of Walker Bay, Hermanus has grown from a small seaside resort town to become arguably the best-known place for whale watching in the world. This town is also famed for its natural scenic beauty, featuring long stretches of pristine beaches. An excellent variety of restaurants, cafes and bars are also on offer. Today, Hermanus is more than just a popular holiday destination and offers visitors all kinds of activities, both energetic and relaxing. Visitors can hike through the nearby Fernkloof Nature Reserve, and sample an array of top-quality wine along the famous Hermanus Wine Route.

Day Itinerary

After breakfast at 9:00 Ebby picked us up at our hotel and took us on a spectacular journey around the Cape Peninsula taking in all the highlights and breathtaking beauty of this world-renowned region. It is a most spectacular drive, rivalling A1 along the California coastline.

We travelled through Camps Bay, Hout Bay, the scenic Chapman’s Peak Drive, beautiful viewpoints on the way to Cape Point, where the mighty Atlantic and False Bay meet in harmony (the Indian Ocean meets with False Bay some 400 km up the coast) and onto Simon’s Town, the charming fishing village of Kalk Bay and historic suburbs of St James and Muizenberg. We stopped for a great lunch in Simon’s Town and at the Cape of Good Hope for photos. We were disappointed that the funicular was not working at Cape Point because of power shedding!

From here we travelled along the east, less developed coast of the peninsula and along the picturesque coastal Clarence Drive into Hermanus.

Overnight: One Marine Drive Boutique Hotel

Located in Hermanus, One Marine Drive Boutique Hotel overlooks Walker Bay with beautiful views and is within walking distance to restaurants and shops.

Sea View Room

We walked to the town centre and along the waterfront path with this gorgeous view and the waves hammering on the rocks.

Day 19: One Marine Drive Boutique Hotel, Hermanus (Thu, February 23)

Day Itinerary

At 6:00 am, we drove to New Harbour for our Walker Bay Cruise to experience a close encounter with the Big five sea creatures from aboard a boat. Hermanus hosts the bulk of the Southern Right Whales that migrate to South Africa but that happens in July/August.

Walker Bay Adventures

Walker Bay Adventures Whale Watching operates from the New Harbour in Hermanus. Hermanus is regarded as the whale watching capital of South Africa, and Walker Bay Adventures offers tourists the opportunity to see these gentle giants in their natural environment. In addition, we were to see the big five sea mammals: whales, dolphins, seals, penguins and sharks. We saw 4 of the 5: no dolphins. We saw a large groups of penguins on two occasions but they were too quick to get photos.

A whale specialist guide, Sandra, was on board to accompany us on this tour and provided lots of information and followed up with a blog with more data. More details of our trip can be found at www.dyerislandcruises.co.za
https://wordpress.com/post/jackieandbillstraveladventures.com/5312

After a safety review and suiting up with life jackets and waterproof rubber coats, we climbed aboard our boat.

We could see a large number of small jellyfish with very long tentacles at the side of the boat.

We watched a shark boat with people in a wire tank as the boat operators attracted the bronze whaler sharks near the boat with bait on a line.

Then we headed to Cape Point (now from the east) where hundreds of cape fur seals live, fish and mate. The males only hang out here during mating season.

Finally, we saw a Bryce’s whale, 15.5 metres in length, on two occasions but only his back was visible as he dived. It was pretty exciting because it is rare to see them and out of season for whale-watchIng.

After the trip, we had hot soup and fresh scones.

On the way back to the hotel, we stopped at a Penguin Rescue Centre where we could see the African Penguin, an endangered species, up close.

We has lunch at La Pedosa overlooking the water and followed that with a 2.2 km hike in Fernkloof Nature Reserve. It was a narrow rocky trail and very steep for the first half.

Fernkloof Nature Reserve

Stretching for 18 square kilometres across the mountains overlooking the popular holiday destination of Hermanus, Fernkloof Nature Reserve is a natural wonderland of indigenous fynbos and coastal vegetation, evergreen woodlands and scenic hiking trails. It is an invaluable conservation area, with more floral species growing in a relatively small area than in any other corner of the planet, and also provides a sanctuary for a menagerie of wildlife.

Day 20: One Marine Drive Boutique Hotel, Hermanus (Fri, February 24)

Day Itinerary

After coffee on the porch and breakfast in the front garden, we walked downtown and looked in the stores but found nothing interesting. We spent the afternoon at the pool.

We walked to dinner at Lemonicious with a great view of the harbour.

Day 21: River Manor Boutique Hotel & Spa, Stellenbosch (Sat, February 25)

Stellenbosch

Just 45 minutes from Cape Town, Stellenbosch is an enticing Western Cape destination with an exciting culinary scene, photogenic historic buildings, and a youthful atmosphere. The beautiful university town is surrounded by mountains, vineyards, and nature reserves (Jonkershoek and Simonsberg), making it a charming base for wine tours, day trips and outdoor adventure. The town centre is characterised by both a “holiday feeling” – art galleries, award-winning restaurants and alluring boutiques fringe leafy cobbled streets – and a sense of aliveness as students bustle between faculties. Architecture enthusiasts enjoy the numerous Cape Dutch and Victorian buildings.

Day Itinerary

After breakfast and check-out at 9:00, we went for a tour through magnificent scenery via the Hermanus Valley, that links the coast and the Franschhoek mainland wine region. On route, we visited a penguin sanctuary, a olive oil estate, botanical garden, and then passed through beautiful scenery visiting a winery for a lovely lunch and beautiful views. The area is rich with history of the Dutch and British.

Harold Porter Botanical Gardens

Cape Nature at Stony Point Reserve

It was great to see so many African penguins in their natural habitat.

Olive oil tasting at Morgenster Winery

This was a new experience and very enjoyable. we tasted the various oils and the balsamic vinegar produced on the farm with olives and biscuits.

Vergelegen Winery and Estate

Ebby took us on a tour of the Vergelegen Estate, with its gardens with the oldest oak tree in South Africa and five magnificent camphor trees. In 1700, the acquisition and extravagant development of the Vergelegen Estate by Governor Willem Adriaan Van der Stel gave rise to the first political conflict between the settlers and the Dutch East India Company authorities in the Cape. In 1706, the settlers revolt led to the downfall of the Governor and his cabal. The documentation about the slaves on the estate suggests that “the conditions must have been better than elsewhere as Willem was accused of harbouring slaves that had escaped from neighbouring farms.”

Blue cranes are the national bird of South Africa.

We had lunch in the Stables Restaurant with the view of the gardens and Hottentots Holland mountain range.

Overnight: River Manor Boutique Hotel & Spa

River Manor is a boutique hotel located in the very heart of historic Stellenbosch. The unbeatable location is within easy walking distance from everything that the historic oak-lined town has to offer.

Housed in two adjacent manor houses and set in a landscaped garden on the banks of the Eerste River, luxuriously- appointed rooms are spacious and contemporary with a classic undertone.

Classic Room

We spent a great day walking the streets of Stellenbosh and the relaxing at the pool. I bought a carved giraffe and Judy bought some lovely clothes and a purse. For dinner, we shared a lamb shank dinner at Stellenbosh Kitchen. We finally learned to split a meal!

Day 22: River Manor Boutique Hotel & Spa, Stellenbosch (Sun, February 26)

Day Itinerary

A free day to explore the lovely town of Stellenbosch. The picturesque town has a lot of history and an array of wonderful little art shops, cafes and wonderful restaurants.

Day 23: River Manor Boutique Hotel & Spa, Stellenbosch (Mon, February 27)

Day Itinerary

A free day to explore the lovely town of Stellenbosch. In all of South Africa, problems with systems that don’t work because of mismanagement and corruption pervade. This establishment is fortunate to have a generator but many do not. In our hotels, the electricity was off for 4-6 hours a day, often without notice.

Day 24: End of Itinerary (Tue, February 28)

Day Itinerary

To the airport in time for departure: Cape Town to Frankfurt to Toronto. With an 8 hour layover, they were very long days.

Last Thoughts

1. The experience of the game drives, being up close and personal with beautiful wild creatures was nothing less than life-altering. They are just stunning. We had no idea of the depth of the impact.
2. We find it very difficult to choose favourite animals but we were impressed with the power of the lions and the huge size of some of the prides. All of the cats were stunning from lions to cheetas to leopards. The giraffes always made us smile whether adult or baby and their graceful movement is like a ballet. There is a warmth about the massive elephants that make you forget that they are wild animals.
3. The life in the villages in Kenya was so much about a struggle for survival with limited resources, in particular water, it was heart-breaking.
4. While we were told the the Kenyan army had cleaned up the border with Somalia, there was extensive security everywhere, especially in Nairobi.
5. Despite its natural beauty and resources, South Africa is a country to worry about. Nelson Mandela’s dream seems to be in tatters. He called for all African brothers to come to South Africa but no systems were put in place to support the migrants. The promise of equality and brotherly love has not come to fruition.
6. The infrastucture is in ruins: there is no consistent electricity: in fact, it goes off many hours every day unless you have a generator; the trains don’t work because the bus company ‘mafia’ blew them up and made them unsafe; the government has bowed to their pressure and bribery. The political system is corrupt.
7. While the city streets lined with trees where the affluent live are beautiful, the kilometer after kilometer of one story shacks in the “Townships” or “Flats” is testimony to the adage that 3% of the population own 90% of the land and money.
8. Talk of minimum wage is undermined by immigrants who offer to work for less for their employers and there is no one to enforce a wage law. Social services appear to be non-existent.
9. This trip was planned entirely by Safari Partners. All of the hotels, tours and flights were excellent. We had only one mess-up when the driver did not come when we were flying from Victoria Falls to Cape Town but it was resolved. While we often plan our own trips, this was one that we are glad we let someone else plan.
10. All of the guides were excellent: Julius, Duncan, Boni, Ebby.